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Fuel Pump Rewire on a 1G FWD
This is a V-faq for a 1G FWD fuel pump re-wire. There is always a disclaimer in one of these things saying that we won't claim responsibility if you blow up your car doing this, and all that, and in this case it's especially so, since you are dealing with electrics AND fuel. Read through the entire V-faq, if you don't feel you are up to something, don't do it, because I claim no responsibility for you damaging your car in any way. :-)
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Things
you will need: 20' 10 Gauge
Power Wire
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Tape one end of the 10 gauge wire to the coat hanger, and fish it over the top of the fuel tank. |
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When the hanger wire shows up on the other side of the tank, pull it until you have enugh 10 Gauge Wire to reach the fuel pump. |
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There are only two stock wires on the fuel pump. A smaller marked wire, and a larger solid black wire. The one you want to cut is the smaller one. It may not always be the same color, but the other one is always the solid Black. |
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This is the correct wire that has been cut. Notice the Solid Black one is not cut! GET IT
YET?! :-) |
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Strip the two ends of the cut wire, and crimp on a Female Quick Disconnect to each end. |
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Now you need a new ground wire. Use a 3-4" piece of speaker wire or something comparable, the gauge size doesn't really matter here. Strip and crimp a Quick Disconnect and a Ring Hole Connector to each end. If you need
to know which one goes on what end, email me your home address so I can
come over and bitch slap you across the face. |
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Now you're going to take out one of the screws from the fuel pump, and replace it with a slightly longer one. The reason for this is that the original screw is too short to thread back in when they go though the Ring Hole Connector. I used a skateboard bolt. |
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Screw the ground wire you made on with the new screw. Now it should look something like this. |
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Strip and crimp on a Female Connector to the end of the 10 gauge wire you pulled over the tank. Now you should have 4 connectors dangling around. |
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Plug the connectors onto the appropriate prongs on the relay {add more detail here} |
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Now use the hanger wire again for the other end of the 10 gauge wire. Find the rubber grommet on the driver side just opposite of the fuel tank. If you notice, what you are doing is running the 10 gauge along the same path as the stock fuel pump wires. Just pop the hanger wire though the grommet. You'll only be able to push it in a tinny bit, and you'll have to go inside the car to pull it the rest of the way though. |
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Pull back some of the carpet in front of the driver-side back seat. There you should see your hanger wire poking though a grommet on the wall. Grab it and pull your 10 gauge though, until your slack is gone from under the car. |
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Remove the plastic door step, and run the wire under the carpet along the side of the car up toward the pedals. |
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Use your hanger again to poke though the huge rubber grommet for the steering that's in the firewall behind the pedals. Just push it though enough to grab it on the other side. As you can see, this car had vacuum lines, EGT wire, and other power wire going through here, you should be careful of these things, if there are there. |
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Pull the 10 gauge though the firewall, and give it some loom if you have some. It will protect the wire from the engine heat. |
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Now it's time to attach that fuse holder. Strip and crimp a Ring Connector to one end, making sure the ring is big enough to go over the bolt on the positive battery cable, first. Strip and crimp the other end to the 10 gauge wire you ran though the firewall with a 10 gauge Butt Connector. Put a 20 amp fuse in the holder, and bolt that ring connector to that positive battery cable. |
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Reconnect your negative battery cable and start'er up! That should be it! Now you have a hell of a lot more voltage going to the fuel pump. THWEAT! |